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Somewhere Between Fes and Marrakech, Rabat Happened
Rabat was supposed to be nothing more than a place to spend the night on my way to Marrakech. A few hours later, I was standing in the blue-and-white lanes of the kasbah, looking out towards the Atlantic, and realising I’d found my own little pearl of Morocco.Had anyone asked me before that trip which three Moroccan cities I most wanted to see, Rab
How I Actually Plan a Trip to London
How I plan a trip to London around theatre, flights, hotels and transport — without treating the plan as sacred.Last time, Ncuti Gatwa and Edward Bluemel were to blame. I knew Gatwa as Eric from Sex Education and the Doctor from Doctor Who, and Bluemel from Killing Eve and My Lady Jane. In Born With Teeth, they were going to play Christopher Marlow
Catania on Foot: A Personal Guide to the Black Baroque City
Exploring Catania on foot through its palaces, churches and fish market, with Bellini along the way, pasta alla Norma at dinner and rather too many reasons to miss my train.When Venus and Mars make love, Vulcan rages in the depths of Etna, spewing his pain into the sky. Fire rains down on Catania, but Liotru, the mighty black elephant, takes the go
In Search of My Best Prague Photograph
Fifteen stops, one phone, years of Prague experience — let the hunt for the best Prague photograph begin.I have been to Prague enough times for another round of classic sightseeing to make very little sense. I know the major landmarks, I have photographed most of them before, and I certainly do not need another picture proving that Charles Bridge i
The Silk I Didn’t Know I Came For
I arrived in Hangzhou knowing almost nothing about its most famous craft. By the time I left, silk had followed me from museums and markets all the way into my suitcase. The old man and I had no language in common. My Chinese was nonexistent, his English was no better, and whatever conversation we were having depended on a translation app, a calc
Let’s Sneak a Look Inside Balmoral Before the King Comes Home
The late Queen Elizabeth II kept Balmoral fiercely private — King Charles III now admits just twelve visitors per tour, at £110–£175 a head. Paying between £110 and £175 to enter Balmoral in a group of twelve is not exactly sneaking in. Still, the experience comes surprisingly close to being allowed into someone’s house while the owner is away. I
To Be or Not to Be in Elsinore: A Day in Helsingør
Hamlet’s castle, a brilliant royal tax, two queens and the grave of a man who never existed - “Gentlemen, you are welcome to Elsinore!” London, Rome and Paris sell themselves. Helsingør needs a story. Fortunately, it has one of the most famous stories ever written. Shakespeare placed Hamlet in Elsinore, the English name for the Danish town of Hel