The Queen, Her Yacht — and the Hotel That Upstaged Them Both
City of Edinburgh

The Queen, Her Yacht — and the Hotel That Upstaged Them Both

Aug 6, 2026 15 min read

I returned to Edinburgh for Elizabeth II’s private rooms. W Edinburgh rewrote the script. By the time I reached Edinburgh, Queen Elizabeth II had already hijacked my Scottish itinerary from beyond the grave. Balmoral had top billing. It was the reason for returning to Scotland: the private Highland estate where the late Queen spent her summers, r

Dunnottar Was the Plan. Stonehaven Nearly Stole the Day.
Stonehaven

Dunnottar Was the Plan. Stonehaven Nearly Stole the Day.

Aug 3, 2026 10 min read

A £3.85 bus from Aberdeen, a castle seen from the outside and an easy coastal walk to Stonehaven There are places I visit because I want to understand them, and places I visit because I want one photograph good enough to justify the journey. Dunnottar Castle belonged firmly to the second category. I had known about it for years. It appears with s

St Andrews: Where History Never Quite Ended
St Andrews

St Andrews: Where History Never Quite Ended

Jul 27, 2026 15 min read

Scotland’s Oldest University, Medieval Ruins and the Town Where William Met Kate I had begun the morning at Dunnottar Castle. By the time I returned to Aberdeen, travelled south to Dundee and checked into another hotel, the sensible interpretation was that I had already done enough for one day. Sensible interpretations have rarely exercised much

Let’s Sneak a Look Inside Balmoral Before the King Comes Home
Scotland

Let’s Sneak a Look Inside Balmoral Before the King Comes Home

Jul 26, 2026 13 min read

The late Queen Elizabeth II kept Balmoral fiercely private — King Charles III now admits just twelve visitors per tour, at £110–£175 a head. Paying between £110 and £175 to enter Balmoral in a group of twelve is not exactly sneaking in. Still, the experience comes surprisingly close to being allowed into someone’s house while the owner is away. I