#spa

Foul-tasting hot water with laxative ambitions, rapidly declining sightseeing standards and two detours from Karlovy Vary — on the day Czechia set its all-time temperature record.By the time I finally made it to Karlovy Vary, I had already been to Czechia more times than I could easily count. Prague and Brno were familiar territory, and I had even

I arrived by ferry, walked through the Old Town at minus eighteen and discovered that a medieval capital could not compete with an excellent dinner and a warm spa. Tallinn’s medieval walls, edited to reflect how that minus-eighteen morning actually felt. Tallinn was not the main destination of this journey. It was one carefully chosen overnight s

An alpine cheese that took over my car, a Design Hotel that kept drawing me back, and one deeply regrettable sip. A few ribbons of morning mist above the Gastein Valley, seen from the balcony at the cōmodo. Early in the morning, a few low ribbons of mist still clung to the mountainside. The air on the balcony was cool and fresh, and the valley be