#food

Caserta Before 10:27: A Pizza Hunt and the Queen’s Secrets
Caserta

Caserta Before 10:27: A Pizza Hunt and the Queen’s Secrets

Oct 3, 2026 • 15 min read

Caserta had to fit between an evening flight and a fast ferry to Capri. I hadn't expected the most useful man that morning to be a driver with a digital translator and a very personal interpretation of royal history.I came to Caserta for the Reggia di Caserta, but gave myself about as much time as if I had come only for pizza. I flew from Trieste t

A Missing Tortoise, Fifty-Seven Urine Samples and Oxford’s Ancient College Feud
Oxford

A Missing Tortoise, Fifty-Seven Urine Samples and Oxford’s Ancient College Feud

Jul 30, 2026 • 36 min read

Seven years after my first visit, I returned to discover what Oxford keeps behind its gates Had apparition been allowed inside Hogwarts, I could have travelled directly from the Gloucester Cathedral cloister where Mrs Norris was found petrified to the hospital wing in Oxford’s Divinity School. Unfortunately, it was not. So I had to take a train.

From Mozart to Moulin Rouge: 40 Hours in Paris
Paris

From Mozart to Moulin Rouge: 40 Hours in Paris

Jul 17, 2026 • 24 min read

Two hotels, two stages and one unapologetically expensive escape Technically, this story is about forty hours in Paris. Spiritually, it began with a brioche in Strasbourg. I had flown into Paris the previous day, only to leave it almost immediately by train. I had never visited Strasbourg, and late November seemed like a reasonable time to correc