Italy

Exploring Catania on foot through its palaces, churches and fish market, with Bellini along the way, pasta alla Norma at dinner and rather too many reasons to miss my train.When Venus and Mars make love, Vulcan rages in the depths of Etna, spewing his pain into the sky. Fire rains down on Catania, but Liotru, the mighty black elephant, takes the go

A cancelled flight, a flooded detour and two radically different Violettas led to an Addio del passato that made the Arena disappear.By the time Vasilisa Berzhanskaya reached Addio del passato, the Arena no longer felt like an arena.A thread of voice crossed row after row without appearing to grow any louder. I had travelled to Verona to discover w

A journey beyond the Hollywood myth, through inland Sicily and roads that made a battered town sign feel like a summit Table of contentsThrough the corn to SalemiAn Accidental Stop in SalemiAfter SalemiWhen the Road Fell ApartThe signThe town behind the nameHow a Parallel Authority Took RootThe Museum I Failed to EnterWhat remained Morning in Mar